When applied topically, retinol undergoes metabolism into retinoic acid, the active form of vitamin A. It boasts exceptional keratolytic properties, making it an excellent option for clearing pores and preventing blemishes. Additionally, it is widely lauded for its effectiveness in addressing wrinkles resulting from photoaging of the skin
Retinol, a member of the retinoid family, comprises derivatives of vitamin A, including retinoic acid and retinal. Isolated initially in 1931 by Swiss chemist Paul Karrer from mackerel liver oil, retinol gained attention in the 1940s when the first study employing tretinoin (or all-trans retinoic acid) to treat acne was published. The efficacy of this organic compound in addressing signs of aging was later demonstrated in the 1980s by American dermatologist Albert Kligman. However, due to its potential for irritation, tretinoin is among the substances banned in cosmetic products according to European Regulation, thus only available through prescription for severe acne treatment. Research indicates better skin tolerance for retinol compared to tretinoin. Consequently, European Cosmetic Regulation permits its use at a concentration of 0.3% in non-rinse products. When applied to the skin, retinol undergoes oxidation into retinal, which is further metabolized into retinoic acid—its active form capable of effectively counteracting skin photo-aging and thereby refining skin texture.
Retinol functions on multiple levels to prevent wrinkles or diminish existing ones on the skin's surface. Its tissue effects are largely mediated through interactions with cellular receptors, including cellular retinoic acid-binding protein (CRABP) types I and II, as well as cellular retinol-binding protein. Overall, retinol and retinoids work across various layers to achieve their effects.
Retinol plays a role in increasing the thickness of the epidermis.
As age progresses, the epidermis undergoes thinning, accompanied by a slowdown in both cellular renewal and keratinocyte proliferation. This reduction in skin tissue contributes to the emergence of wrinkles on the skin's surface. Retinol functions by stimulating the proliferation of keratinocytes, thereby addressing this issue.
Retinol helps to limit the degradation of collagen and elastin, essential proteins in the connective tissue of the dermis.
These proteins are crucial for strengthening the skin and enhancing its elasticity and firmness. However, over time, they are broken down by enzymes such as matrix metalloproteinases (MMP), including collagenase and elastase. By topically applying retinol, the activity of these enzymes is inhibited, preventing them from causing damage to collagen and elastin. Additionally, retinol stimulates the synthesis of collagen type 1 in the dermis, further contributing to the maintenance of skin health.
Retinol acts by blocking the damage caused by free radicals.
Free radicals are unstable molecules known for their highly reactive nature, which leads to the degradation of healthy cells and proteins in the body, consequently accelerating the aging process. They are produced by various factors, including pollution, UV rays, and cigarette smoke. Retinol works to neutralize these molecules, thereby preventing their harmful effects on the skin.
Retinol aids in combating pigmentation spots.
The emergence of brown spots is associated with skin aging and/or exposure to external aggressors like pollution and UV rays. Hyperpigmentation occurs due to a disruption in the pigmentation process: melanin, the pigment responsible for skin's natural color, is overproduced in specific areas, resulting in the formation of brown, red, or pink spots, which can be aesthetically displeasing. Retinol plays a role in regulating melanocytes and diminishing the intensity of pigmented spots on the skin's surface.
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